Make it with Kate

Building Projects

Double Picture Frame Moulding DIY

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking

This DIY double picture frame moulding is great in any empty walls of your house. Follow this simple method do to it yourself!

I’ve been working in this living room for 3 years now, one DIY project after another. The living room is almost where I want it! After adding my own built ins using stock cabinets and replacing the flooring, I’m ready to move on to the walls. I’m a sucker for wall treatments. I love accent walls, board and batten, moulding and trim, I love it all. This is an easy double picture frame moulding that makes a big impact.

This DIY double picture frame moulding is great in any empty walls of your house. Follow this simple method do to it yourself!

Double Picture Frame Moulding

Picture frame moulding looks complicated, but it’s a great beginner friendly DIY project. Having the right tools makes it a breeze. And after the first few boxes, the rest seem to go up pretty easily.

The most important things to pay attention to are keeping the first piece of your box level, and keeping everything evenly spaced to be pleasing to the eye.

I’ve done picture frame moulding in my dining room, so followed a similar process, just chose to double up on my boxes to give it a grander appearance.

What you need for double picture frame moulding

I’m adding a miter saw to this list because depending on the size of your trim, it’s the easiest way to make a lot of cuts quickly. But, if you don’t have a miter saw and aren’t ready to invest in one yet, miter snips will get the job done at a fraction of the cost. If you have a miter saw and want to add one more tool to your inventory, grab a pair of miter snips. At around $20 they will definitely come in handy for when you don’t want to haul everything back and forth to the miter saw!

  • Miter saw/miter snips
  • level
  • tape measurer
  • nail gun
  • wood filler
  • caulk
  • base cap trim (outer box)
  • screen moulding (inner box)

*I use PVC trim because it’s typically cheaper than wood trim and looks fine once it’s all painted

This DIY double picture frame moulding is great in any empty walls of your house. Follow this simple method do to it yourself!

How to install double picture frame moulding

I like to start with a few rules for myself to keep everything uniform and then base all of the dimensions off of the size of the room and what each wall looks like. For this project I made a rule of 3″ spacing for the outer boxes. So 3″ from ceiling and floor, and 3″ between each box.

Then I take each wall and look at the spacing and scale of the boxes to start my planning. I also think about where artwork, and lighting etc will go. I wanted my biggest open wall here to have a larger box in the middle for artwork, and two smaller boxes on the sides for sconces.

My best advice when planning is to put pencil to paper, write out the dimensions of the room, and then just start drawing different layouts. I also like to mark out boxes with painters tape on the wall so that I can really get a good visual of spacing.

Making upper and lower boxes also helps draw the eye upward and make the room feel bigger. I like to do the upper boxes on the top 2/3 of the room, and lower boxes on the bottom 1/3.

Planning my spacing

For this room, I measured the height of the room. I had 90″ from the top of my baseboard to the bottom of my crown moulding. So, the upper boxes would go in the top 60″ and the lower boxes in the bottom 30″. So to determine the height of my boxes, I took 60″-6″(for 3″ spacing) and got 54″ boxes in height. Then for the lowers I did 30″-3″ (for the spacing to the baseboard) and have 27″ boxes. This was my spacing all around the room. The the width I based on how many boxes I wanted, each wall was different based on the wall space but I followed the same calculations.

Cutting the trim

Planning everything out is one of the harder parts, now comes the fun! Basically, you are going to cut 4 pieces of base cap trim with 45° angles on each side.

I like to cut a template piece and then just use that to make all my cuts of the same size. So, for vertical pieces I needed 54″ for all vertical upper boxes. I cut one, then used that to measure and mark all of the rest of the 54″ pieces I needed and bulk cut them on the miter saw. I did the same for horizontal pieces. Measuring this way by templating a piece helps small discrepancies from occurring with transferring measuring tape to trim.

Once all of your pieces are cut, it’s time to attach them to the wall. I like to to this with a nail gun in case I need to remove pieces, but you could use liquid nails (glue) instead. That just feels too permanent to me, I really hate drywall repair.

Make a 3″ spacer block out of scrap wood to easily measure all of your spacing. I like to work top down, so place my first piece 3″ from the edge of the wall and 3″ from the top of the wall and nail it into place, checking that it’s level. Once the top piece is in, I can place the side pieces of the box, ensuring they are level, and finish it off with the bottom.

Use the spacer block to place the next box 3″ over and repeat. Then keep going until all of your boxes are installed!

Add the interior box

I used the thicker, more decorative, base cap trim for the outer box. I wanted to add dimension with something smaller for the inside box and chose screen moulding. Initially I tried the 3″ spacing inside the box as well, but the scale looked off. So, I switched it to 2″ on the inside and it looked much better.

So I cut a 2″ spacer block and all of my pieces of trim and repeated the same steps as above. Because the screen moulding is smaller and easy to cut with miter snips, I used those here, again my templating one piece of trim them transferring the measurement and bulk cutting.

3″ spacing on the interior box, it just doesn’t look right
2″ inch spacing on the interior box is much better

Finish the boxes

Once the boxes are up, use wood filler to fill in nail holes or corner seams, and then caulk where the trim meets the wall. This will seal everything up and fill in any gaps that remain.

Once this is complete, you can add a coat of paint to make a uniform look between wall and trim and voila! Your double box moulding is complete and you have another DIY under your belt!

This DIY double picture frame moulding is great in any empty walls of your house. Follow this simple method do to it yourself!

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How to Build a Refrigerator Surround Cabinet

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking, Uncategorized

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

I have expanded my kitchen by adding a diy coffee corner and a breakfast bar, this refrigerator surround cabinet is the final addition here. Our kitchen was builder grade and had an overhead refrigerator cabinet with no other enclosure. This refrigerator surround cabinet makes the fridge look built in while serving as a command center for my family.

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

How to Build a Refrigerator Surround Cabinet

Prior to building a fridge surround, it’s important to note what exactly you want to get out of your surround.

Are you looking for aesthetics? Do you need more cabinet space? In this case, I wanted the refrigerator to be built-in. Additionally, I decided that rather than building just an enclosure, I would add a cabinet to increase the storage space in my kitchen.

This kitchen enclosure is essentially a tall cabinet that is built in next to the refrigerator, as this particular fridge has a wall on the other side of it.

What you need to build a refrigerator surround cabinet:

  • 3/4″ sanded plywood (dimensions to fit cabinet box+face frame)
  • pocket hole tool
  • table saw or circular saw with jig
  • drill
  • 3/4″ MDF primed trim
  • 1/4″ sanded plywood (dimensions for door)
  • door hinge template
  • door hinges for 3/4″ overhang
  • base shoe moulding
  • wood glue
  • interior construction screws

Steps for building a tall cabinet

This tall cabinet will serve as a bulk of the refrigerator enclosure. To build a cabinet, make a basic box with a back, sides, top and bottom and then a face frame for the front.

Measure your space and how the cabinet will fit. When taking the measurements for your cabinet box, remember to take into account the thickness of the plywood you are using.

For example, if the cabinet is 80″ tall, the back will measure 80″ but with the top and bottom attached to the back (both at 3/4″ thickness) the sides will only be 78 1/2″ tall.

Measure your space and plan all of the cuts for the box. I like to sketch these out of graph paper.

Cabinet measurements you will need:

  • back
  • top
  • bottom
  • sides
  • face frame lengths (make this out of plywood or use 1×2 common board)

How to assemble the tall fridge surround cabinet

There are two options for assembling the cabinet box.

You can choose to use pocket holes or attach the pieces with construction screws through where the cabinet pieces meet up.

What are pocket holes?

Pocket holes are a type of joinery where a hole is drilled at an angle in one piece of the build. This is joined to another piece with a screw drilled in at that angle.

This can be achieved with a pocket hole tool. I like to use this one from Kreg which is a simple and straightforward tool to use. There are some instructions that are crucial to pay attention to such as the depth of the hole and the screw used. But, after getting the hang of pocket hole joinery I find this the easiest way to put a cabinet box together.

Tip: Pay attention to where the pocket holes are, though these holes can be filled, you will want to place the pocket hole on the wall side or back of the cabinet to keep everything looking clean.

Adding a face frame to a tall cabinet

A face frame isn’t a necessary component to a cabinet, I prefer using one when building a cabinet as it provides a more finished look when using plywood and gives more wiggle room in the cabinet door install.

A face frame is simply some trim that goes around the front of the cabinet box.

Cut the length of the entire side of the cabinet from a 1×2 common board or plywood and attach using wood glue and a nail gun.

Then cut the width remaining (total width minus face frame sides) and attach in the same way.

Your cabinet box should be complete!

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

Build an Easy Shaker Cabinet Door

I feel bad calling this a shaker cabinet door because I definitely didn’t build it the “right” way. But, it is shaker style for sure, so I’ll show you how to build it the cheat way too.

Read the full tutorial and breakdown for building an easy shaker door here.

Essentially, I built a frame out of primed 1x4s using pocket holes so assemble the stiles and rails.

Then I glued the frame onto 1/4″ plywood. You could alternatively use hardboard or MDF for this for a smoother texture.

When making ‘real’ shaker cabinets, a groove or channel is cut out of the center of the stiles and rails and the middle slides into that. This creates a more seamless look.

I chose to build these the easy way for 2 reasons. One, my side pieces were almost 8′ tall and it felt unsafe to run that through a table saw the way I needed to to create a groove.

And 2, the thickness of the frame on the door the ‘easy’ way is now the same as the thickness on the trim on the side of the cabinet making the entire thing look uniform.

And, it was easier.

Adding hinges to a DIY cabinet door

Choosing hinges for a cabinet door can be overwhelming, but there are a couple of key things to look for when finding the right ones.

  • Does your cabinet have an overlay (face frame)?
  • How much swing or distance do you want your door to open to?

In this case, my doors had a 3/4″ overlay and I wanted a 90* open.

Using a hinge template, drill the holes on the inside of the cabinet doors and attach the hinges using provided screws.

Then, hang the door onto the cabinet by attaching the other side of the hinge to the face frame of the cabinet.

Tip: when hanging a door by yourself, prop the door up on the bottom with scrap wood to hold it in place while you attach the hinges to the cabinet.

DIY Command Center Fridge Surround

Once the DIY refrigerator cabinet is built it’s time to install. Do this by using construction screws on the inside of the cabinet into the wall (into a stud). Then use spacer blocks and a spacer board at the front to build the cabinet into the neighboring cabinets.

This can be a piece of scrap wood cut to the correct width and length of the gap in between cabinets.

Add trim at the base of the cabinet to match existing trim in the room.

Add hardware to the refrigerator surround

For a tall cabinet like this I like a longer bar handle so that the proportions look accurate.

On this cabinet I used the Kepler Knurled T-Bar Handle from Plank Hardware which has a really nice weight and texture to it.

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

Additionally, I used their Levi Square Hooks in Brass on the inside of the cabinet.

When adding cabinet hardware, use a piece of painters tape to measure the distance between hardware holes, then place the tape on the door and drill through the holes in the tape.

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

This is a quick and easy way to do this without measuring!

Additionally, when installing something like a hook by yourself, use painters tape to hold the hook in place while drilling pilot holes and attaching the hardware.

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.
This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

Built in Refrigerator Cabinet plus Command Center

That’s it! Now the refrigerator looks built in with an enclosure, plus this cabinet can serve many purposes. In our family, it’s a command center with cleaning supplies, a chore chart and all charging ports for all the things!

Amazon recommendations for a family command center:

If you have any other ideas for this family command center, let me know in the comments!

This refrigerator surround cabinet makes this kitchen fridge look built-in, plus it serves as a family command center.

Installing a Tile Backsplash: DIY Corner Coffee Bar

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking

Installing a tile backsplash is a great way to make your space look upgraded. Check out the tips on making this beginner friendly.

The base of the DIY corner coffee bar is complete with the blind corner cabinet and mini fridge cabinet builds complete. I opted to get a granite that matched the rest of my kitchen as a countertop, and now it’s time for installing a tile backsplash. This is turning into such a fun DIY Woodworking project.

Read these to see how we got here:

Convert a Base Cabinet to a Blind Corner Cabinet: DIY Corner Coffee Bar

DIY Mini Fridge Cabinet: Corner Coffee and Wine Bar

Installing a tile backsplash is a great way to make your space look upgraded. Check out the tips on making this beginner friendly.

Installing a Tile Backsplash

I’ll admit that installing a tile backsplash intimidated me. I set out to make this as straightforward as possible without buying a whole collection of new tools.

If this is your first time tiling a backsplash, choose a tile that doesn’t require an intricate layout or tricky cuts. Taking this into consideration, I decided to go with a basic subway tile that came on a mesh sheet.

This provided me with an easy to follow pattern that was mostly set with the spacing of the tiles per square foot. Additionally, they only required straight cuts which I could use a tile cutter for instead of a wet saw.

Lastly, grout color matters! White grout on white tile will hide a lot of imperfections in spacing or jagged cuts, whereas using a gray grout will show these imperfections more.

So, white subway tile + white grout = easy!

What you need to install a subway tile backsplash

  • Pre-mixed mortar or mastic
  • Notched trowel
  • White subway tile on mesh sheet
  • spacers that match the spacing on the mesh sheet
  • tile cutter
  • white grout
  • grout spreader
  • sponge
  • sanded caulk

How to tile the subway backsplash

Prior to placing the tile on the wall, do a dry layout on the counter below the backsplash. This will ensure that the spacing will look good, as far as where tile cuts till be etc.

I like to start in the middle and work out, that way the end cuts end up looking similar and the line of sight in the middle of the backsplash looks good. This can also help make sure you have enough tile to fit your space.

Add the mastic to the wall

I like to use pre-mixed mortar or mastic. Mortar can be used with almost all tiles, glass and stone tiles need mortar. Mastic is designed for use with ceramic tiles and works for some porcelain tiles. Because I was using ceramic tiles, I could use mortar or mastic. My stores had mastic available so that is what I used for this project.

Work in small sections because mastic will begin to dry so small sections will keep you from having to scrape off mastic that is beginning to dry.

Use a notched trowel to spread the mortar on the wall in the section you will be working in. The notches will allow for grooves in the mortar on the wall which will help the tile adhere better.

Place the tile on the wall

The tile in mesh sheets make this part easy. Grab a sheet of tile and place it on the wet mastic and triple check that the tile is level.

Because the tile should not be flush against the countertop, use spacers at the bottom of the tiles between the counter and the first tow of tile.

Continue to place sheets of tile across the backsplash. At the end of the row at the edge or the corner, tiles will need to be cut. I kept a sheet of mesh tile to the side for my cuts. The tiles peel off of the mesh sheets easily so that they can be cut and placed individually.

To cut a piece of tile, use an inexpensive tile cutter for straight cuts. Measure and mark the tile where you want to cut it, then score and snap with the cutter.

Place the individual cut tiles on the wall where need until all of the gaps are closed in. Use spacers where needed with cut tiles to keep them in place.

If you have outlets or light switches on the backsplash, cuts will need to be made around these areas as well.

Grout the backsplash

The mortar or mastic will take minimum 24 hours to dry. I like to give it a minimum of 48 hours to dry before grouting.

After the dry time is complete, remove the spacers and ensure that the tiles are set and not moving around.

Spread the grout on the tile using a grout float, ensuring the grout is being pressed in all of the crevices between the tile. Once spread, wipe with a large wet sponge.

This is a messy process, but the sponge will get most of the grout off of the tile easily. The sponge and bowl of water will need to be cleaned often.

Continue adding grout until all of the crevices are filled and let dry!

Add sanded caulk along the edges of the backsplash and in the groove between the tile and the countertop.

Once dry, seal the grout with a grout sealer and wipe the tiles down with watered down vinegar to remove the grout haze.

Installing a tile backsplash is a great way to make your space look upgraded. Check out the tips on making this beginner friendly.

Reacp how to make installing a tile backsplash beginner friendly

  • Use a tile on a mesh sheet with clean lines/cuts
  • Use premixed mortar/mastic and premixed grout
  • Use a light grout color to easily hide imperfections
  • Make straight cuts with a simple tile cutter

Enjoy your new, beautiful subway tile backsplash!

More in the DIY Corner Coffee Bar Series

DIY Indoor Climbing Wall: ORC Week 8

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking, One Room Challenge

It’s Week 8 of the One Room Challenge, which means this DIY indoor climbing wall is the final component of this room makeover. This room has seen such a transformation over 8 weeks, to see how the room turned out and tutorials for each component, check out the Game Room Makeover here.

This DIY indoor climbing wall is such a fun addition to a game room for kids. Plus, it's a very easy beginnier build with only a few tools needed.

Build a DIY Indoor Climbing Wall

Building a climbing wall is easy! This is a great beginner project and only requires a few tools. Plus, it’s one that kids *and adults* will love. I’ll admit that I’ve climbed to the ceiling a few times, to test it of course.

I wanted a climbing wall as the final touch to this room to give it that extra touch of fun. I had an empty piece of wall next to the DIY built in shelving that I made was tucked away from the rest of the room. It just begged for a fun feature like this!

What you need to build an indoor rock wall

  • 2×3 boards (cut to length of your rock wall)
  • 3/4″ plywood (cut to the size of your wall)
  • 3″ construction screws
  • drill
  • stud finder
  • level
  • climbing holds
  • miter saw/circular saw

How to make the rock wall

Determine the size of your rock wall. Mine was 2′ wide by 8′ tall, so I was able to buy two 2’x4′ plywood sheets to stack for this project.

Cut the 2″x3″ studs so that they can run across the width of the rock wall, and enough to space them 16″ apart for the entire height of the rock wall.

For this wall, I did six 2″x3″s spaced 16″ apart for the height of the rock wall.

Once cut to size, use 3″ construction screws to attach the 2″x3″s horizontally into the studs. This will look like a ladder when complete.

Assemble the rock wall by drilling holes where the climbing holds will be, and using the mounting hardware to attach the holds to the wall.

When determining the spacing of the climbing holds, do not place any holds where the plywood will meet the 2″x3″ brackets behind the wall.

Once the plywood wall is complete with the climbing holds, attach the rock wall to the 2″x 3″s on the wall with the construction screws.

The rock wall is complete!

I chose to spray paint the climbing holds with white spray paint and textured stone spray because I didn’t want the colorful climbing holds. I also painted the plywood, but you can choose to leave it natural or paint it whatever theme you like!

This DIY indoor climbing wall is one that my kids really enjoy, and it has provided the perfect final touch to this fun, kids game room.

CHECK OUT ALL OF THE POSTS IN THIS SERIES FOR PROGRESS

Convert a Base Cabinet to a Blind Corner Cabinet: DIY Corner Coffee Bar

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking

This corner coffee bar build has been my favorite DIY woodworking project to date. It has a corner counter and cabinet area with a built in mini fridge and floating shelves. In this post I’ll show you how to convert a base cabinet to a blind corner cabinet.

This simple tutorial will show you how to convert a base cabinet to a blind corner cabinet. An easy way to save space in a small corner. #diybuilds

Convert a Base Cabinet to a Blind Corner Cabinet

Using stock cabinets is one of my favorite DIY hacks. Adding some trim and hardware is really how to make stock cabinets look custom. And, they cut down on the time of building cabinets from scratch.

For this corner of my kitchen, I knew I wanted a blind corner cabinet, because traditional corner cabinets were too bulky for the limited space I had in this corner.

Empty corner and rough drawing of what I wanted to design

I do have a full blog post on where to buy stock cabinets at big box stores, but, before I head there I like to check on Facebook Marketplace and see if I can get them even cheaper. In this case, I found a base cabinet that fit the dimensions I wanted perfectly, and for only $10. SCORE.

Turning this base cabinet into a blind corner was quite simple, I’ll show you how.

Cabinet before

What you need to make a blind corner cabinet

  • scrap plywood
  • screwdriver/drill
  • base trim
  • brad nailer
  • wood glue

How to convert your base cabinet to a blind corner cabinet

What is a blind corner cabinet?

A blind corner cabinet only has one cabinet door, where the other cabinet door would be is open space. The space is created in the corner is accessible through one cabinet door. Where the other cabinet door would exist to reach that space, another cabinet is mounted there to create a corner.

A traditional corner cabinet would have much more usable space where everything is easily accessible. However, blind corners and great for small spaces, and luckily you can purchase or build organization that allows the space to be easily used.

What is a base cabinet?

A base cabinet is one that sits on the floor rather than hang on the wall. They are deeper than wall cabinets, creating a base for the countertop for sit on. Additionally, they typically have a toe kick at the bottom.

Convert the base cabinet to a blind corner

Alright, now that we know the difference between a base cabinet and a blind corner cabinet, I’ll show you how to easily convert one to the other.

Essentially, removing one cabinet door will turn the base cabinet into a blind corner.

It gets tricky when lining everything up so that the dimensions of your space work with that one cabinet door.

For this project, if I were to simply remove the door and butt that up against the cabinetry on the other side of the corner, the cabinet would not extend out far enough on that wall.

Plus less of my cabinet would have been accessible and the opening of the cabinet door would have been crammed.

The steps I took to help the fit were:

  1. Remove the cabinet door closest to the corner.
  2. Place the cabinet where I wanted it on the wall (there was a gap of about 4 inches off the back wall where I used some 2×4 blocks to keep it in place.
  3. Place the other corner cabinet frame where I wanted it to hit the blind corner.
  4. Cut a piece of 3/4″ scrap plywood to fill in any existing space where the cabinet door was missing and wood glue plus screw in place.
  5. Cut a piece of 3/4″ scrap plywood to create a filler between where the two cabinets meet so that the plywood corner was the same on both sides. I attached this with wood glue and screws.
  6. Use 2×4 blocks behind that scrap piece to attach the two cabinets together at the top behind the spacer.
  7. Attach the cabinets to the wall through the back frame into studs with screws.
  8. Fill in the toe kick with base trim.
You can see here that the space where one cabinet met the other didn’t leave the cabinet door too accessible.
Adding a piece of scrap plywood bumps the other corner cabinet out enough to make both sides more accessible
Here I messed with the layout to make all of the spaces as accessible as possible. You can see in the blind corner that space is usable. Also, painting everything the same color hides what we did in the corner.
Added hardware to the door and placed base trim on the toe kick!

Now, I have a blind corner cabinet with a nice plywood corner of about 3″ to help the corner cabinet doors and wine rack feel accessible and not crammed.

More posts in this DIY Coffee Corner Build

DIY Mini Fridge Cabinet

more coming soon!

Built-in Gaming Console with Stock Cabinets – Fall ORC Week 3

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking, One Room Challenge

This built in gaming console from stock cabinets is a simple and straightforward build, great for beginners with an advanced look.

It’s week 3 of the Fall One Room Challenge! I made a bit more progress this week by making a built-in gaming console with stock cabinets. One of my very favorite DIY projects to do in my home is using stock cabinets for built ins.

This built in gaming console from stock cabinets is a simple and straightforward build, great for beginners with an advanced look.

*This post contains affiliate links.

Built-in Gaming Console from Stock Cabinets

Stock cabinets are unfinished kitchen cabinets that you can buy at bog box stores like Home Depot and Lowes. With the current prices of lumber, they can be cheaper than building the cabinet yourself and save a TON of time. Plus, this makes for a super beginner-friendly DIY home project

To read more about using stock cabinets, read this article >> Stock Cabinets for Built ins: What they are and where to get them

For this gaming console I used wall cabinets which are only 12″ deep vs 25″ or so. I wanted this shallow profile to make the room seem bigger, and also so that my kids didn’t throw things into the back of the cabinets where they will never be found.

This game room makeover is moving right along!

This built in gaming console from stock cabinets is a simple and straightforward build, great for beginners with an advanced look.

What you need for the built in gaming console

  • Stock cabinets (the amount and size will depend on your wall – I used 4 of them – (1) 36″, (2) 30″, (1) 15″ for a total length of 111″
  • 2″x4″ studs – enough to make a rectangle base with braces for your length
  • 2.5″ Construction screws
  • MDF in the length of the countertop
  • wood glue
  • drill
  • cabinet hardware
  • baseboards
  • jigsaw
  • 2″ hole dozer

How to make the built in gaming console

Build a base for the cabinets

Because these built ins with stock cabinets use wall cabinets, you first need to build a base for them to sit on. This is built out of 2x4s and is a simple rectangular frame.

Measure the length of all of the cabinets together and cut two 2x4s to that length. If your total length is longer than the studs you have, use pocket holes to attach the 2x4s together to make the correct length.

Then cut the connecting pieces to length, minus the width of the other two 2x4s.

Ok that sounds really confusing, so here is a diagram to refer to and hopefully that will make more sense. This is an example but as it will depend on the length of your piece, but will work for the depth of standard (12″) wall cabinets.

*Note – as is the case with most lumber, a 2×4 isn’t actually 2″x4″, it’s really 1.5″ x 3.5″. I know…what the heck!?

Attach these boards with construction screws and a drill. Don’t worry about seeing the screw head on the front of the base as this will be covered with baseboards. However, you do want the screw to be flush or slightly countersunk so that the baseboards attach flush.

Make the cut outs for electrical wiring

If you’re going to be using wiring through these cabinets, make these cuts before installing the cabinetry to the wall.

I needed access to the cords and the outlet coming through the wall behind one of my cabinets. Cut that portion out with a jigsaw (use a drill to make a hole in the wood to start the jigsaw).

Additionally, if you are going to want cords to hook into anything on top of the counter, make a hole with a 2″ hole dozer on the top of the cabinets. This will allow cords to come up through the top of the cabinetry and hook up to video game systems, phone chargers etc.

By making these cutouts, your cabinetry and countertop can sit flush against the walls.

Attach the cabinets to the base and the wall

Place the stock wall cabinets on top of the base and attach to one another with a screw through the face frame on the inside. Once all of the cabinets are attached to each other by the face frame, screw the base into the wall studs through the back of the cabinets.

Additionally, screw the base of the cabinet to the platform that you’ve built. These should be super sturdy after this.

At this point, you will have a built-in gaming console!

Stain the cabinets

For these cabinets I chose to use a mix of Varathane Antique White and Varathane Sunbleached stain. I used this method:

Apply Antique White stain with a rag and wipe off -> sand with 120 grit sandpaper -> second coat of antique white -> sand with 220 grit sandpaper -> apply Sunbleached stain -> sand with 220 again

You could paint these as an alternative!

Make the countertop

I’m using MDF board for the countertop because I’ll be doing a marbled epoxy top over it.

You can use MDF and paint it, or use plywood and paint or stain that for a countertop too.

The important thing to keep in mind with creating the countertop is that most boards are 3/4″ thick, and a typical countertop is thicker than then. So, by stacking two 3/4″ thick boards together you can get a nice sturdy and great looking countertop.

My MDF boards were only 8′ long and I needed a countertop almost 12′ long. So, I attach two MDF boards together with pocket holes to create the desired length for my space.

*I did stagger where the seams were on the top and the bottom board to keep it structurally sound.

Two create the thick boards, simple spread wood glue all over the bottom board, lay the top board on the glue and clamp the boards together to let dry for 24 hours.

Attach baseboards to the console

I haven’t done this step yet because I’m waiting for later in the One Room Challenge where I do trim around the room. Stay tuned for that update.

However, as a note for now, if you want to hide your platform, use baseboard around the bottom of the unit, or simply quarter round trim to make a nice transition to your floor.

If you are choosing to paint the unit instead of stain, caulk the seam between the platform and the cabinets then paint the entire thing and the platform will be seamless with the rest of the unit!

Add cabinet hardware

I used these cabinet pulls from Amazon, they are a really affordable option and easy to install.

Use painters tape to make a template of where the holes on your pull are located, then place the tape where you want the pull on the cabinet.

Drill the appropriate holes and attach the pulls. Hardware is a great way to make these really custom.

This built in gaming console from stock cabinets is a simple and straightforward build, great for beginners with an advanced look.

That’s it! It’s a straightforward process that really isn’t difficult!

Fall One Room Challenge Game Room Makeover

Don’t forget to check out the rest of the posts in this series!

DIY Faux Brick Wall from Wall Paneling: Fall One Room Challenge Week 2

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking, One Room Challenge, Wall Decor

This faux brick wall is made with joint compound and wall paneling, and when you’re done with it, it looks like real german schmear.

If you missed my plan for the One Room Challenge Game Room Makeover, head there to see what this wall is becoming a part of! I’m thrilled with how this faux brick wall turned out, plus, it’s a cost effective stone wall.

This faux brick wall is made with joint compound and wall paneling, and when you're done with it, it looks like real german schmear.

Faux Brick Wall Made from Paneling

When we think of wall paneling, the old dark wood panel walls from the 80’s come to mind. But, wall paneling done right can become beautiful feature walls! Don’t believe me? Check it out.

If you read the post linked above, you know that I’m participating in the Fall One Room Challenge hosted by Better Homes and Gardens. I’m working on building a wall to wall console for video game storage and use, this faux brick wall, and some DIY shelving to make an awesome game room for my kids.

I can’t wait to see it all come together, and this feature wall was the first step! Let me break it down for you so that you can see how a blank white wall can become a white ‘brick’ wall.

This faux brick wall is made with joint compound and wall paneling, and when you're done with it, it looks like real german schmear.

What you need to make the faux brick wall:

  • brick wall panels (they come in 4’x8′ sheets, so get what you need to fit your space)
  • liquid nails or other construction adhesive
  • brad nailer (optional – you could use a hammer and nails but a pneumatic nails sinks the nails in and they become invisible)
  • circular saw or jigsaw to cut the paneling to size or cut out outlet holes etc.
  • joint compound
  • plastic taping knife
  • 120 grit sanding block
  • white paint
  • water
  • foam paint roller

How to make the faux brick wall

A brick wall panel is a chipboard panel with an acrylic coating that looks like real brick. To me, it has the shape of brick but is missing the texture and imperfection of real brick.

So, in this tutorial you will see how to layer joint compound over the brick paneling to get the texture of real brick, and the result is beautiful!

process photo of brick wall paneling installation

Step 1. Cut the brick panels to size with a circular saw or table saw.

Step 2. Measure and cut out any outlets, wall vents or other holes that you need to access on the wall behind the paneling. Do this by marking the cutout, beginning a jigsaw hole with a drill, and using a jigsaw to cut out the shape needed.

brick wall paneling

Step 3. Attach the brick wall panels to the wall with liquid nails and then secured with nails (a brad nailer makes this super easy).

joint compound and scraper
joint compound on brick wall paneling

Step 4. Use joint compound and a plastic taping knife to spread joint compound over the brick wall panel.

This is where you get the faux brick look, there isn’t a ‘right’ or ‘perfect’ way to do this, basically just keep spreading until you get the look and texture that you like.

white brick wall

Step 5. Let dry for 24 hours, then sand with a 120 sanding block to take off any rough spots or large bumps.

sanding block over brick wall

Step 6. Whitewash the brick by making a wash of 1 part white paint and 1 part water and apply with a foam roller.

white wash paint roller over brick wall

That’s it!

Tape a step back and enjoy your faux brick wall! It has the beautiful texture and color of real brick with german schmear, for much cheaper.

How much did this joint compound brick wall cost?

Alright so here is the budget breakdown for this ‘brick wall’.

Before I get to the budget, I’ll give you the dimensions so you can get an idea of how much space this budget covered.

My wall was 138″ wide and 104″ tall. This is roughly 12′ x 8′. Because I’m doing built ins on the bottom half of the wall I didn’t need to add more brick to go all the way to the floor, the 8′ was enough.

Budget breakdown:

  • (3) 4’x 8′ brick wall panels – $120
  • liquid nails – $7
  • joint compound – $16

I had the rest of the materials such as tools and paint on hand so didn’t need to purchase any of that.

Which brings the total for my faux brick wall to $143.

Just for reference, there are some amazing interior brick resources that you can use such as Brick Webb, which are thin pieces of real brick. They run around $11.50 per square foot (not including grout etc.), so for my wall that would have been $1,104 in brick alone (vs. $120).

Now, if I had the budget I would go with the Brick Webb, I’m not at all saying that it isn’t worth it, but for this project and a room that my kids use that I found old pizza crust from who knows when in, the faux brick wall is just fine 🙂

I hope this gives you the courage to try and make a faux brick wall in your home!

This faux brick wall is made with joint compound and wall paneling, and when you're done with it, it looks like real german schmear.

Check out the other posts in this One Room Challenge game room makeover

Follow me on IG for the behind the scenes in stories!

DIY Mudroom: Final Reveal, Styling and FAQ’s

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking

This was such a labor of love, and I’m so happy with how the entire project turned out! Creating my own DIY mudroom allowed me to really bring my design to life, and customize all of the nooks and crannies to fit our lifestyle.

This is a recap posts of all of the pieces that brought this mudroom together. Included are a corner bench, cabinets, a locker unit, and a peg rail board and batten wall with wallpaper.

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Mud Room Part 4: DIY Board and Batten with Peg Rail Top

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking

<< DIY Mud Room Part 1: DIY Mudroom Bench

<<DIY Mud Room Part 2: Adding Mudroom Locker Cabinets

<<DIY Mud Room Part 3: DIY Mudroom Lockers

The bench is built, the cabinets are installed, the lockers are done. It’s time to finish the other mudroom wall off with a DIY board and batten with a peg rail top!

This is the perfect detail wall that will really finish off the corner mud room unit, and the addition of the peg rail will add extra space to hang coats, towels and decor.

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DIY Mud Room Part 3: DIY Mudroom Lockers

Building Projects, DIY Woodworking

<< DIY Mud Room Part 1: DIY Mudroom Bench

<< DIY Mud Room Part 2: Adding Mudroom Locker Cabinets

Now that the bench is built and the cabinets are in, it’s time to build the DIY mudroom lockers! This is my favorite part of this space. When the kids come home from school, they can hang their backpacks, jackets and face masks (yep, writing this during the pandemic) and everything stays organized and easy to find.

Not walking through a pile of jackets and backpacks on the floor make me so happy. Plus, this is a fun building project that is pretty easy and straightforward.

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